TEST DRIVING THE CAR - Okay, you've looked the car over inside and out. The final step in assessing the condition of the used car is the test drive. This should be a fairly extensive drive, not just a cruise around the parking lot. A car's good points or problems are often apparent after a few miles. If the engine was warm when you arrived to look at the car, it may mean the seller has been running it to hide starting difficulties. Start the engine and press down on the brake. The brake pedal should go down only an inch or two and should feel firm and solid, not spongy. Press down on the brakes for about a minute. If the pedal sinks slowly, there may be a leak in the master cylinder of the brakes. As the engine warms up, listen for any noises such as knocks, ticking and rattles which could indicate engine problems. Next, put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Look in the rear view mirror to see if there is any smoke coming out of the exhaust. If there is a lot of white or bluish smoke, the engine may need an overhaul. At idle, the engine should be smooth and quiet. Punch the gas pedal to see if the engine responds without hesitating and then returns to normal idle. When first starting out, drive slowly to get the feel of the car. The automatic transmission should shift smoothly without jerking, slipping or hesitation. A manual transmission should shift smoothly between gears without grinding. The clutch should engage and disengage smoothly without grabbing or chattering and don't forget to make sure the reverse works. Drive on a flat, smooth road and lift your hands slightly from the wheel. The car should track straight and be stable without vibration. If the car pulls in either direction, a front end alignment may be needed. To test the brakes, accelerate to 30 or 40 miles per hour but make sure there are no cars behind you. Step hard on the brake pedal but don't lock the wheels. The brakes should grab evenly and the car should slow down in a straight line. If the car pulls to the left or right, it indicates the need for brake adjustment or a system re-build. A grinding noise indicates badly worn pads or linings. Drive at 35 miles per hour and listen for any unusual noises. If you hear a whining sound from the rear end, it may need replacing. Now, accelerate to 45 miles per hour. If the front end shakes or vibrates, the tires probably need balancing. Drive quickly over a rough road and listen for any loud squeaks or rattles. If the car bounces or bangs over small bumps, the suspension may be worn. After you've driven the car for a while, check the temperature gauge to see if it shows a high reading or if the temperature warning light comes on. These are signs of trouble with the cooling system and they can be very expensive. To test the engine response, accelerate hard on an empty road. The car should respond immediately. Back off and hit the gas again. There should be no hesitation or smoke from the car. The engine should accelerate smoothly with no strange noises. You may want to find a steep hill to check the engine's power. If there is a significant loss in power while climbing, the car may need an over haul or a tune-up. While you're on the hill, test out the hand brake to make sure that it holds the car. When you are through with the test drive, it's a good idea to turn the car off for a minute or two. Then restart the engine to see how well it starts when hot. Check again for leaks under the hood and beneath the car. Some leaks may only appear after driving. It's also a good idea to check the tail pipe. An engine that is burning oil will leave a black, sooty oil deposit. On the other hand, a white, powdery residue usually means good fuel combustion.
